Coco Chanel (born Gabrielle in 1883) began her fashion career after opening a millinery shop in 1912 making simple but stylish hats. A ready market helped her expand into clothes and by the 20's she had built a substantial fashion house with its emphasis on comfortable elegance. It swept away the fussy, sometimes painful clothes considered suitable for women of the time and her designs blended features previously exclusively male with innovative fabrics. They were astonishing to the more rigid tastes of the times and marked a liberation in women's fashion. Her signature creations included the jersey suit and dress, the draped turban, the chemise, pleated skirts, the cardigan suit, the little black dress, the sling pump, the box jacket, the strapless dress and the trench coat. Chanel first branched into perfumes in 1922 with the iconic No 5 (it was the fifth and last in a selection she had commissioned). As with her fashion it defied norms.